Porter – the new must have accessory from Net-a-Porter

The fashion world seems to be aflutter with the news that Net-a-Porter are launching their very own magazine Porter and if I’m honest, I can’t quite understand why this astute move has caused such head scratching.

Where content is King, Net-a-Porter are particularly regal in their reign and are true leaders in terms of content creation. A genuine fashion authority, with the product range, and technological and creative execution to match, their edit online has always been industry leading. And as an editorial platform, it is a true multichannel approach to execute their fashion content in the ‘real’ or ‘print’ world. Natalie Massenet confirmed in her interview with Business of Fashion, ‘“We’ve talked about how the Net-a-Porter Group is actually not just a retail company, but it’s a media company. And if we’re a serious media company we couldn’t ignore one of the most important existing media, which is print”.

Lest we forget, ASOS have seen their magazine drop onto customer doormats since 2007 despite trading purely online. Sure, this magazine is a freebie but so bold are ASOS in their content marketing approach that this is a true lifestyle publication, covering off all areas of interest – not only fashion, but a fashionable lifestyle. Whilst the ASOS magazine showcases their own product, the editorial team are brave enough to put designers not actually stocked through their channels on the front cover, as per the Sky Ferreira issue. A bold move but surely a considered one – positioning themselves as a fashion leader, and no longer simply an online shop. (With a circulation in 2013 of 436,657 this is incredible reach  for ASOS – as point of reference, monthly title ELLE is at 144,972).

And therein lies the rub – to truly cement your brand within the heart of a consumer, you can no longer just be a shop. Brands have to do so much more to resonate with their customer than simply flog clothes through their site and stores. They have to be a ‘go-to’ brand not only to shop, but for inspiration and great story telling… where a final purchase is a happy coincidence (read: inevitable) in a hugely crowded market. Which is why ASOS have launched ASOS Daily Edit – a reason to visit the site daily. ASOS aren’t expecting you to shop with them every day, but they are cementing themselves as a lifestyle and news portal, increasing return visits, and driving customer loyalty and shareability through bite sized news. In addition, this daily edit breaks down a huge inventory that when visited on a less frequent basis, can be hugely overwhelming; 1,948 styles in their dress category alone.

But back to Porter. The nay sayers who ring the tolling bell that ‘print is dead’ may as well be those that say that music and film lovers will never buy an LP, CD or DVD ever again. And particularly in fashion, the coffee table effect will still have a huge part to play. There is something beautifully tangible and tantalising in having to anticipate a weekly or monthly magazine and finally turn a physical page. See also, displaying your latest fashion title on a coffee table, a new fashionable accessory to your home – and an exercise in repeat brand awareness for your like-minded friends who visit. Why else are record players hugely successful at Urban Outfitters, so too their instant cameras? Seems that listening to music digitally – and so too, sharing photography through sites like Instagram – can only fulfil one part of some consumers lifestyles. In our digital age, there is still power in something physical.

The arrival of new publication Porter shows bravery, of course, but also cements the brand’s values as industry leading – whilst Natalie Massenet insists that this magazine is being set up as a business venture, highlighting the high margin on a print product of this kind, it is a hugely powerful statement of intent that Net-a-Porter is not only a shop but a fashion voice to compete with the best of them. And where luxury brands offer diffusion ranges through cheaper merchandise such as makeup and perfume, this feels like Net-a-Porter’s very own entry price point item. Capture  fashion fans when they’re young and can stretch to the $9.99 magazine price and grow with them until they can afford to shop with the true product ranges. Building customer loyalty with this new marketing vehicle of Porter is more than just canny, it’s a clear marketing strategy.

So too, positioning the magazine as the world’s first global fashion publication. A nice hook – but one that I would, admittedly, query. A global publication that’s only published in English? In a world where we think globally but must also consider localisation, my only query would be – and mindful of the huge undertaking of translating a publication of this kind for different territories as an obvious barrier – would be whether some of the publication could be localised for the key markets. How relevant can English content be for all territories? Could a small section be localised with regional content to truly speak to that customer outside of the UK? Where Net-a-Porter have a hugely impressive segmentation strategy on email, this is the one piece of the puzzle globally that hasn’t been translated, multichannel style, into this print piece. Where fashion magazines like Grazia can often localise a feature to the North or South of England, I would query whether this is the next logical step in the editorial puzzle. Where Net-a-Porter customers may be cash rich and time poor, and a personal shopping style service is expected, this generic approach feels like it is the one flaw in a remarkable content marketing piece.

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The Vogue Festival: all style no substance?

Well look who it is! And it I’d have known you were coming I’d have baked a cake. I apologise for my journey into the fashion wilderness but I’m back and… better for having a day to recover from the Vogue Festival. Yes, like everyone worth their stylish salt, I made my journey to the home of Made in Chelsea, West London, this weekend to join the fashionista fervour that was hosted at the Royal Geographical Society courtesy of the world’s most fabulous fashion tome. Altogether now, ‘hello lover….’

It’s safe to say that upon seeing the line-up for Vogue Fest, I instantly salivated at the impressive mix of speakers – Bailey and Katrantzou and Erdem? Oh my! And such fashion talent sat alongside a wide range of eclectic names, from Mary Portas and Nigella Lawson to Edie Campbell and Pixie Geldof. I was, of course, champing at the bit to see Rachel Zoe up close and personal, simply to gauge just how teeny weeny she was – Nicole Richie or Borrower sized? You’d better believe I had an office sweepstake on her weight in edamame beans before I left the office on Friday night. Jackpot: ding – ding- don’t eat anything but dust or air!

It was, however, Tom Ford’s name that I found most arresting – the chance to hear the King of glamour, gorgeousness and – well, godlike genius after his star turn directing A Single Man- talk in close proximity. And it seemed that Vogue took this priceless opportunity to hear such key fashion names speak live… and matched this incredibly impressive lineup with a similarly impressive price tag.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but we live in financially unstable times. The Great British High Street is struggling and brands from entry level to luxury are consistently discounting. If the press are to believed, we as a nation are reigning in our spending (I must have missed that memo), and yet, Vogue priced their event tickets at a not so size zero £75. For half a day. A quick glance round the event assured me that a considerable amount of attendees were lucky enough to work in the fashion industry and therefore perhaps, like myself and my colleague, able to expense their ticket under the guise of a sartorial school trip. But another look round the room (and not just to gawp at the extraordinary outfits), made it abundantly clear that a similar number were fashion students relying on their student loan. And for them, despite the fact many stayed for the whole day, would find £75 (or even £150), a tricky price to style out.

I was interested to read a quote from Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman, via the Business of Fashion, explaining, ‘Right from the get go, this was about making it affordable for the general public’. Well, congratulations for showing that Vogue has such little grasp on reality – whilst I understand that the magazine is an aspirational bible for fashion and style, in this particular climate, fashion publications, whatever their format, need to grasp the reality of our current landscape. Bravo to ELLE who mix and match the high to low end – and so, too, to Look, Grazia and a whole other host of glossies who succeed in showcasing that money can’t buy you style (but it can certainly help…). In the case of Look, it’s particularly interesting that their seasonal fashion shows are accessible via a datacapture and competition mechanic – no money exchanges hands for these tickets. And, ironically, an attendee would certainly get more bang for their buck – a full fashion show, canapés, drinks and a goodybag to finish. Not bad for free…

So whilst the speakers at Vogue were inspirational, and unequivocally industry leading, I found it hard to understand what the £75 entrance fee covered – the venue hire and exquisite décor? For I wonder how many of these names were paid to be interviewed live and how many did it as a mutually beneficial promotional tool, and to score all important brownie points with Vogue’s PR and editorial team? If the magazine were trying to position this as an educational event, enriching the lives of its readers and offering a full lifestyle experience, they’d have done well to offer a richer experience for the money, and less of the feeling that we might have been paying to enrich their brand… the additional activity of a handful of lacklustre cosmetic stands and a paid-for café didn’t really lift this event to anything you wouldn’t see at any run of the mill fashion bash or – dare I say it – the hell on earth that is The Clothes Show and fashion frenzy that is London Fashion Weekend.

Vogue Festival was an opportunity for the brand to assert itself and to mark its point of difference. The idea of creating a ‘live’ experience, a chance to watch Vogue interviews in action and draw behind the fashion curtain was admirable… but there was a lack of closeness to the brand or any kind of intimacy – indeed, despite arriving over 45 minutes early to watch Tom Ford’s interview, there was no room to watch unless on the balcony, which quickly became packed to the rafters, many attendees standing throughout the duration in their sky high heels. So not chic. Similarly, news travelled that the smaller workshops were heavily oversubscribed (we were warned to leave Tom Ford early in order to watch a customisation class – not over your White Patchouli, sweetheart) and by midday on Saturday, the queue of people waiting to watch the talk between photographer Tim Walker and former Vogue fashion director Kate Phelan (now at Topshop) had snaked all the way around the building.

If this was a chance to be intimate with a brand, it had, albeit spectacularly, failed. Why not more realistically cap the number of tickets for the space? Why not host the event for more than 4 sessions? Why not allow customers a real taste of the fashion lifestyle and host a fabulous fashion show – no doubt there would have been brands clamouring to sponsor a style platform like that?

So whilst goodwill amongst attendees seemed to be akin to finding a Mulberry half price on the first day of Sale, I couldn’t help but be a little sceptical. Could the Vogue office not have decamped to the venue to really show a ‘live’ scene direct from Vogue HQ, with the editors fiercely writing their next article? Shulman insisted, ‘All along I was very keen that it would have other things, that it would not just be talks. I wanted it to have events going on around it’, however, the opportunity to have your photo appear on the front of your very own Vogue cover – whilst fun and kitsch – did, in this landscape of digital innovation, just feel a little passé. Whilst Vogue were ahead of the curve with their iPad app and Vogue Night Out initiative, couldn’t they have done something a little more exciting at such a key event for them? Could it have been the perfect opportunity to exploit geo-location marketing, or explore online video? What fantastic content could have been created to go viral afterwards? What might have been if the fashionable speakers had been allowed to generate their own content to host online at Vogue.com? And why weren’t the interviews live streamed but made exclusive by an RSVP mechanic beforehand therefore creating a real time event for those who wanted to participate outside of the event’s four walls? I find it incredibly hard to believe this would have jeopardised ticket sales.

The Vogue Festival was undoubtedly a success in terms of attendees – the four sessions completely sold out and, apart from a sense of overcrowding throughout the day, there was a real buzz in the air. However, for Vogue to position themselves as a credible and forward thinking fashion brand who don’t rely solely on their heritage, reputation and contacts, the next event needs to not simply bank its success on the names on stage. Similarly, there needs to be a concentrated effort on what could maintain the exclusive nature of proceedings without the hefty price tag (it was noticeable that the headline sponsor was luxury mobile phone company Vertu – not exactly the to-go to brand for the average 18 – 30 year old fashion fan. Unless they accessorised their latest outfit with a hefty trust fund). Whilst I had huge fun watching the irrepressibly charming, and genuinely inspiring Tom Ford talk during his Q and A session, it was the lack of other activity, innovation and simply space to move and explore other areas of the Vogue brand that meant for me, this event fell short of a runaway (or should that be runway?) success. I would, however, like to thank Vogue for creating the most pointless and fruitless epic crush of all time in the shape of Tom Ford. CALL ME.

Vogue Festival

…And here’s what I wore! As street snapped by the lovely blogger Ashley the Fashionista
ASOS playsuit, customised leather gilet with H&M faux fur collar, Mulberry Bayswater handbag, Michael Kors watch, Miss Selfridge necklace, Rayban Wayfarer sunglasses and Topshop boots.

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These Bertie Boots are made for Walking

Bertie Shoes

Do you remember that moment during Sex and the City when Carrie Bradshaw realises ‘I will literally be the old woman who lives in her shoes?’ Well I have a confession to make: my long term career plan is to be a mad bag woman and I am proud. Ish… Those of you who know me (and my wardrobe) will know my fetishism for all things arm candy reaches deep breathing into paper bags near Chanel, powerless stroking of anything Mulberry-shaped, belonging to strangers or otherwise, and a deep disdain that it’s predominantly frowned upon to sell a kidney to buy the latest ‘it’ bag. You only need one after all, guys…

When it comes to shoes I’m lured by loafers and pumps by day and ankle boots by night -so I was delighted when Bertie got in touch to invite me into their Covent Garden store and take a peek at their latest ranges.  The Beatles were on the stereo, I had the most gorgeously soft Chelsea ankle boots with easy wear wedges on my feet and I had an all round lovely time. The Bertie gang have shared not only my footwear choices but my guide to East London on their blog – read all about it here (and pray that Mulberry get in touch and ask me to do the same with their handbags. Well, a girl can dream…)

Bertie according to me is here.
Catch up with blogger Jazzabelle sharing her shoe story here.
Say thank you to lovely blogger Jemsy14 for taking these snaps for me here.

Bertie Shoes

To the backdrop of my ever glamorous Old Street offices, outfit deets as follows:
Photo 1 + 3: Urban Outfitters playsuit, Topshop coat, Forever 21 cross necklace and rings, Chanel logo necklace, Mulberry handbag, Michael Kors watch, Bertie boots.

Photo 2: Primark playsuit, New Look coat, New Look fur collar, TK Maxx handbag, Urban Outfitters pendant, Ray Ban Wayfarer sunglasses, Bertie Boots.

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Come Sale Away

Happy New Year! And wishing your wardrobe a very stylish 2012… I’d imagine that, like mine, yours is groaning under the weight of newly purchased (and worn once) frocks for party season, kind Christmas gifts (“it‘s SO [not] YOU!” items hung up… in the bin….) and heavy duty Sales shopping matching the 50% off tag with a 50% swell in your total amount of clothes. Guilty as charged, your honour. And if I’m going down, I’m bringing you all down with me.

…So I’d also hazard a guess that, if you’re a normal human being, the words ‘detox’ and ‘spring clean’ in conjunction with your dressing room / hot pink Argos clothes rail (here she is) / walk in wardrobe etc etc fill you with as much dread as the idea of the Steps comeback tour. You may have slumped after your recent battle with the Sales -elbows sharpened, no pushing at the back please – but did you find the Sales themselves felt a little lacklustre, like they’d lost their style sparkle?

I’m not talking about the product directly (who doesn’t need a neon yellow crop top in January and YES mum, I’ll wear those rabbit fur ear muffs all year round, OK?) , but rather the means that the shops tried to flog their old season product, which in many cases, had barely touched down in store before its prices were slashed. Did you feel the shops looked a bit distressed, a little depressed and generally a bit of a mess this time of year? Gone are the days when Boxing Day promotions might be the only means to tempt you from your Christmas stupor and the guiding star of that all important Sale bargain to draw you from Turkey, Mince Pie and charades to… well, a bit of a charade really.

Promiscuous. Canny. Hard to please. Your ex-boyfriend, maybe, but also a new breed of shoppers that have been honed in the current financial climate. Gone are the days when you might have, say, a list of your top 3 stores you’d religiously shop at. A bit like football teams for girls (and the sales assistants were a lot better looking than Rooney), shopping was a near-religious experience at the altar of your favourite few brands you’d visit week in week out for your latest must haves or that very special occasion. Now however, who doesn’t hunt out the best possible price by scouring Voucher Codes for an elusive 10% discount, rips out a 25% offer in that week’s fashion glossy or stumbles across a special 20% off on email just because it’s Tuesday? Who hasn’t based their dinner that evening on the restaurant offering 2 for 1 or held out til Wednesday to see a film with Orange? The future is bright for consumers, and these offers are dictating when our desire and demand for shopping is most fervent – but it’s also ensuring we’re used to a discounts throughout the year. When Sale does come around as clockwork – who cares? Will that first 30% off really swing it for us on a tired old top we snapped up 2 months earlier when it had 25% off with Grazia Magazine? Unlikely at best.

These constant promotions on the high street have also created a sense of confidence in us as shoppers, a kind of us against them for the retailers. Finally, we feel like we know how much product must really cost. As we swagger into stores (in heels – quite the coup), we know that if our favourite brands can offer 25% off their new collections at a drop of a hat – and presumably not lose out – why on earth would we pay the original and clearly inflated price? This undermines the price tag when Sale finally comes round – so much so that when retailers boast ’70% off! And an extra 10% off today only!’ we’re not thinking ‘gee THANKS!’, we’re grumbling that they think they can get away with the clearly inflated original price the rest of the year . Now, this is not always fair – brands do start to make a loss when they seriously slash prices at the end of Sale to clear their old stock, but when you feel a million dollars in your latest purchase, remember that the last time you paid full whack for a piece that may have been made for less than 25% of the asking price, the brand you purchased it from was probably feeling pretty made up, too.

So whilst there always seems to be some kind of offer or promotion available for most high street brands (whilst trying to remember your account password for online stores – “JackWhiteHallLovesMe2000″ in my case – who hasn’t popped off to google for a promotional code on the off chance you might get an extra 10% off or at least free postage and packaging for your efforts?), it’s the regularity of these promotions that’s so telling. So too, what seems to be a mad rush for retailers to go into their Sale first. A whole host launched theirs in early-mid December meaning by the time it got to Christmas the shops were a mess (but at least the late shoppers amongst us could shop with serious savings. Smug, much – and yes, I would like that £1.99 bracelet gift wrapped, suckers). It also meant that by the time these same sales were dragged out all over Christmas and out the other side they started to look really tired. 75% off! Further reductions! More lines added! We’ll pay YOU to take it off our hands, good people! By this time, and with magazines looking towards Spring / Summer 2012 (whilst we might still have been very much in our onesie, face down in the remnants of our Christmas selection boxes thank you very much), there was a definite feel that we were champing at the bit for something new, something exciting and not the latest collection marred by rails filled with cut-price dresses we STILL didn’t want in a size 4 or 18 with 3 buttons missing and orange foundation stain on the collar – even if it WAS at 97% off. (Then again…)

There were some brands who did it and did it right – and those who can create some excitement about product in addition to the discount are doing something significantly different. Exclusive and preview sales  are always a way to keep things feeling more Prada than Poundland and create loyalty amongst us customers, a kind of ‘we’re in the know’ club. And those who do it short and sharp seem to maintain credibility – Topshop are so rare to discount that when they do, it really is cause for a song, dance and serious battering of the old credit card. The online preview meant us email subscribers felt rewarded and also marked the eve of when we were going to brave the rails instore for the stuff that hadn’t sold out online. Selfridges, too, started late – Christmas Day online and Boxing Day instores. With their luxury offer, and typical restraint to discount, this was also a hugely attractive place to join the Sale scrum. (True story: during my days working at Selfridges, we had cases of mad shopaholics sprinting up escalators running in the opposite direction, so determind were they to get their sticky mitts on designer handbags before anyone else in the Christmas Sales. Good will to all men (but eff off any woman who came became them and the Miu Miu tote bag they’d had their eye on all season…)).

So what’s the answer? Well for us customers, I guess we’re laughing – up to our eyeballs with offers and then with bi-annual Sales on top of that (oh and mid season Sale and everything else). But what about for the poor retailers? There’s no doubt that big reductions bring big spending, even if it IS at a discount rate, but whilst eating into those all important margins and ultimately, creating a vicious circle it will be really hard to get out of. Can you imagine ever buying anything at full price unless it was the dress of your dreams? Forget finding your Prince, finding brands that can sell the majority of their stock at full price (without offering you buy one get one free, trade in your granny for the designer handbags of your choice or without yet another extra 20% off) is a REAL fairytale for those retail Chief Execs… Good luck to them!

Christmas Sales

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That moment when you meet The One (Piece)

Forget Stepping into Christmas – despite my near religious beliefs to spend my working day in heels, the latest press release I received was to Jump In. That would be, more specifically, to jump into a….Onesie. Yes, the all in one tracksuit, the grown up babygro, the clothing equivalent of the Ugg boot (all comfort, no style) is incredulously crossing into the mainstream and, thanks to the brand One Piece, heading to Shoreditch’s newest hot spot, Box Park. Suitably edgy for its East London postcode, Box Park is the conglomeration of shipping containers that make up the world’s first pop up mall, now open for business and a welcome refresher to the oversized but slightly soulless Westfield Shopping Centre that’s opened up the road in Stratford.

Ever since I saw Harry One Direction (just keep that direction towards me, sunshine…) wearing his oversized babygro, there’s been a certain je ne sais quoi about onesies – and OnePiece seemed to have dovetailed this casualwear zeitgeist with the shopability of American Apparel offering a veritable Techincolour Dreamcoat selection of colours and styles. I’ll warn you, as the celebrity following suggests – the range at OnePiece ain’t cheap: the American Flag style I was eyeing up to relive the glory of the Rex Kwan Do teacher in Napoleon Dynamite (“Take a look at what I’m wearing, people….You think anybody thinks I’m a failure because I go home to Starla at night? Forget about it!”) cashed in at a not so casual £160. Snuggle off. But if people will pay a minimum of £130 for Ugg boots which are basically glorified slippers, and £60 for Wildfox t-shirts which often remind me of Pilot circa 1997 (RIP), there is no doubt there will be a market for a OnePiece in the A list wardrobe. (Who’s waiting for product placement in Made in Chelsea, TOWIE and the much touted, and close neighbour to Box Park, The Only Way is Dalston? All in favour, say aye!)

Norweigan’s finest may not be recession budget proof, but baby, it’s cold outside and if we can’t afford to go out we may as well embrace luxury loungewear. So, will I be seen casually wearing a OnePiece when I pop down to Tesco for a bottle of Lambrini carton of milk? Certainly not. For fear of never being able to go to the toilet in less than 25 minutes ever again and also, predominantly, the fear that if I ever put one of these wearable blankets on, I may never take it off… Make your Onesie Direction to OnePiece in Boxpark, open now, and see if you can resist The One.

OnePiece on One Direction

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Burberry: How to be practically perfect in every way

Burberry’s  SS12 collection. How much did I love thee? Let me count the ways… So much so that I wrote an ode to Christopher Bailey on the Le Blow website here. Read on, make your mental wish list and yes, I will sell at least one vital organ to get my sticky mitts on one of those trademark trench coats. No problem.

Burberry SS12

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Loafing About with Henry Holland

Sarah Jessica Parker once famously told Vanity Fair, ‘If you’re a nice person and you work hard, you get to go shopping at Barneys.’ I’m now not so famously telling you, if you’re a nice blogger and you work hard, you get sent free stuff on a pretty regular basis. Thank you please.

This week, I’ve become the proud new owner of a pair of loafers from Debenhams, courtesy of H! by Henry Holland (if you want to buy online, make sure you visit Voucher Codes for ongoing discounts here). Impeccably well timed as I recently appear to have lost approximately 3 inches in height since forgoing heels for flats. The underneath of my office desk is a veritable graveyard for heels (“in case of emergency meeting  / last minute date, break glass”) and my mother has exclaimed “I DIDN’T RECOGNISE YOU” on several occasions upon spying my comparably diminutive stature (at 5 foor 7 and three quarters…). Sorry mum. For everything.

Constantly intrigued by Henry Holland, my thought process usually consists of the following: style over substance? Lucky break? Henry Holland himself as a media brand vs the clothes as a cute sideline? I am currently particularly interested that he’s joined the fold of Debenhams designers, which is growing increasingly impressive – see also: Jonathan Saunders and Matthew Williamson. The male equivalent of an ‘it girl’, Henry’s über cool clan of mates including Agyness Deyn, Nick Grimshaw, the Geldofs et al meant I was surprised he’d chosen to design for this classic, yet eminently middle of the road high street heavy weight. Which I typically regard as about as cool as a watching an episode of Hollyoaks with a ready meal on a Monday night. I never quite buy into the argument that a diffusion range actually raises awareness and sales of the main line collection and can only imagine our Henners saw the pound signs as bold as his ‘Flick Yer Bean for Agyness Deyn’ slogan t-shirt.

The range, however, seems popular – the prices in line with the high street, if not slightly cheaper, and a couple of stand out pieces including polka dots, studded trainers and knitwear with kitsch animal adornment. And so too – the loafers I was sent. In man made materials (these could have been so much more luxe in softest suede, something New Look achieve on this same price bracket), I did love the heritage style horse adornment to the front. My only issue? They do feel very stiff, as though you’d wear them out for their first outing – and return crippled, accessorised by a box of Hello Kitty plasters. That may just be me. However, at £28 (or, in my case, free), they’re a lot more interesting than 90% of the Topshop range of flat shoes and if anyone asks where they’re from? Wistfully explaining (read: cheekily editing the full response to) ‘oh they’re Henry Holland…’ should just about do the fashion trick.

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